About Duane

Duane is the Web Marketing Manager for Screaming Circuits, an EMS company based in Canby, Oregon. He blogs regularly on matters ranging from circuit board design and assembly to general industry observations.

Pour Or Not — Just What Is My Opinion?

I posed a question about using copper pours (AKA flood) a not long ago. The premise was a simple microcontroller board with a 20MHz clock and no special requirements.

I had a couple of different comments on the post with some very good insight. Myself, I generally don’t use copper pours. My only reason is that I think it usually looks better without (although I do like the look of the cross-hatch pour on the Arduino). A well done flood can be pretty cool, but still my inclination is to only use it if it’s needed. If it’s a shop doing the PCB, the metal will be recovered and recycled, so the conservationist in me is pleased.

If it’s a home-etched deal, then a pour is probably a better idea because it will reduce the amount of etchant needed. Although you do need to be careful to keep plenty of space between things to prevent solder bridges. Solder bridging isn’t such a big deal on a PCB with a good solder mask, but it certainly is on a board with no mask or thin mask.

If there is a good reason, I will. Like a high-current motor driver — I use the pour to keep the current capacity up and the kelvons mellow. Heat-sinking is a good reason for a pour. High-speed stuff usually benefits from a flooded plane of some sort too and in four-layer boards, using the innerplanes for power and or ground is nice and convenient. But you all know that. I’m just rambling now.

Duane Benson
Does high speed stuff on a flooded plane require a speed boat?
Will too much heat sink it?

http://blog.screamingcircuits.com/

Diode Silk Screen Markings

It still happens. In fact, it just happened last night. We had a PCB with plus (+) mark to indicate the polarity of diode. Unfortunately, that doesn’t tell us which way to put the diode. (Read why here.)

You just can’t always tell. If it’s a barrier diode or a zener, the cathode might very well be the positive side. Or, it could be the negative side. An LED will usually have the anode positive, but again, there may be a few scenarios where it’s not. The bottom line is that a plus (+) or minus (-) sign doesn’t give us enough information to orient the diode.

We prefer that you use the actual diode symbol, or an industry standard anode or cathode indicator. “A” orGood markation “C” for anode or cathode can also work. Just make sure you also put the reference designator (D1, D2…) so we know it’s not a capacitor.

In the job last night, the build instructions were conflicting so we called and with the help of the designer, figured it all out, but it’s always best to do it right the first time. So be clear with your silk screen, the PCB you save may be your own.

Duane Benson

Spider or worm?

http://blog.screamingcircuits.com